Lori Stryker
The largest organ of the human body is the skin. It protects our bodies from the environment, maintains body temperature, excretes waste matter, gives sensory information to the brain and regulates body moisture. We think about our skin more than some other part of our bodies, and we manifest that attention by investing our emotions and about 6 to 20 % of our disposable income into our skin (Lappe, 1996). It is worthwhile to consider, then, how cosmetic products affect our skin. In this article the psycho-social impact of cosmetics will be examined as well as why cosmetics are deemed necessary. The physiology of skin, how cosmetics affect skin function and the effects of synthetic and natural cosmetic ingredients on the skin will also be considered.
The Psycho-Social Impact of Cosmetics
Our society is preoccupied with the "culture of beauty" (Lappe, 1996) which includes the notion that our skin must always look young and appear free from blemish. Our mental well-being is often closely enmeshed with perceptions of how our skin appears to ourselves and others. We define our self-image to include the visible representation of our skin to others, so as a result, it has become the "primary canvas on which our social and personal identity is drawn" (Lappe, 1996). Cosmetic companies set aside concepts of natural beauty so that flaws such as life-sized pores, fine lines and wrinkles are brought to the fore, influencing our spending habits in pursuit of perfect skin.
In the animal kingdom, most male species are endowed with prismatic physical attributes so that a little colourful, but wisely camouflaged female mate will be attracted to it. Humans do not have equivalent ornamentation, so women use cosmetics, specifically make-up, to decorate their faces to attract prospective mates.
The Need for Cosmetics
A cosmetic is any substance which, when applied, results in a temporary, superficial change (Anctzak, 2001). We use a incalculable of cosmetics on our skin, from moisturizers to lipstick. Make-up alters our visual appearance by enhancing our facial features finished the artistic application of colour. It can beautify the face and be used to express our sense of self to others. Make-up can hide blemishes, scars, under-eye circles or even down our skin tone. It can boost self-esteem, make us feel much attractive and increase our social acceptability in some ethnic situations. Using make-up can contribute to a groomed image, which positively influences our confidence, self-esteem, health and morale.
Skin care cosmetics treat the surface layer of the skin by providing better protection against the environment than skin left-handed untreated. Creams treat the skin's surface by imparting moisture to the skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin. It also forms a cadaverous barrier which traps moisture underneath, thereby preventing the evaporation of water from the skin's surface. Creams also accelerate the hydration of skin cells on the external layer, giving the skin a temporarily smooth, plump appearance. Exfoliants improve the appearance of the skin by sloughing away tender skin, blackheads and some dead skin cells. Astringents improve skin tone and texture by swelling the pore walls so unimproved and debris do not collect within. Soaps loosen particles of unimproved and grime by dissolving the unclean residue left on the skin from natural skin oils, creams and make-up.
The Physiology of the Skin and How Cosmetics Affect Skin Function
Skin is made up of three important layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The epidermis is the only layer we can see with our eyes and as we age, remarkable changes occur which are invisible from our view. For instance, the skin gradually thins over time, especially around the eyes. Some cosmeceuticals can minimally re-thicken the skin, but the process of thinning is inevitable. Elastin and collagen, located in the dermis keep the skin resilient and moist, but with ageing these fibres break down to create lines and wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation accelerates this process, and since few cosmetics can actually reach the dermis, the idea that a cosmetic can backward this process is unfounded. The primo way to prevent fine lines and wrinkles is to limit our exposure to the sun and ultraviolet radiation.
The skin is a highly complex, dynamic tissue system. One squared inch of the skin is unflustered of 19 cardinal cells, 625 sweat glands, 90 oil glands, 65 hair follicles, 19 000 sensory cells and 4 metres of blood vessels (Lappe, 1996). The outer layer of the epidermis is titled the cornified layer, and is ready-made of sheets of keratin, a protein, and squames, dead, flat skin cells. It is our barrier against dehydration from the environment. It receives its primary supply of moisture from the underlying tissue, since constant contact from the outside environment tends to dry out the skin's surface. When the skin is exposed to dry conditions, the cornified layer can become dry, brittle, firm and if untreated, it can crack and lead to infection. Creams create a waxy barrier to prevent dehydration and keep the skin moist and supple. Underneath the cornified layer lie six more layers of the epidermis responsible for cell generation. The life cycle of skin cells within this layer takes approximately 28 days, so it may take three to four weeks to observe any changes at the skin's surface from using a new cosmetic.
The skin shallow is also domestic to millions of healthy micro-organisms which increase our immunity to pathogenic, or disease-causing bacteria. Thus, our desire to sterilize the skin also destroys beneficial bacteria, much as streptococcus mutans, and micrococcus luteus . Toners, for instance, are beneficial in keeping bacterial populations down, thus reducing acne flare-ups resulting from microbes which invade and proliferate in the pores. Overuse of anti-microbial agents can produce harmful results when too many advantageous bacteria are destroyed, allowing pathogenic bacteria to multiply unrestrained on the skin. The skin also produces healthful proteins, two of which are titled defensins and cathelicidins, which increase when the skin is damaged. Perspiration, necessary for the maintenance of inner body temperature, also excretes a antiseptic protein called dermicidin to combat bacteria producing body odour. Deodorants also assist in keeping the bacterial population down, thus tapering the odours produced as they feed on the inhospitable matter excreted by the sweat glands. Research has shown that people who wash excessively are more unerect to infection and eczema as a result of 'washing" away natural bacteria and germicides too frequently (Awake!, 2004).
The Effect of Natural and unreal Cosmetic Ingredients on the Skin
A natural substance is any plant or animal extract, rock or mineral which is obtained from the earth (Antczak, 2001). An stylized or synthetic substance is a substance which has been modified through chemical reactions in an industrial process (Antczak, 2001). We use a myriad of cosmetics on our skin, but before we use these beauty aids, cardinal essential questions should be asked:
- What is the composition of the cosmetic?
- Why is each ingredient used?
- Do the ingredients have positive or negative effects on the skin and body? (See glossary at www.organicmakeup.ca)
Many products claim to be harmless or even may appear to be safe, but beyond the short-term benefits of using the cosmetic, are there any long term effects from regular absorption of its use? Skin used to be considered an impervious barrier, but transdermal drugs have tested that the different is true; the skin allows galore substances to pass through its layers into the bloodstream.
Several factors affect the rate with which the skin will absorb varied cosmetic ingredients. The condition of the skin, much as whether it is dry or damaged will increase absorption. Cuts, acne or abrasions also increase absorption. Other ways to absorb aesthetic ingredients is to inhale them, much as with hairspray or talcum powder, or through the mucous membranes. Moist substances are most readily attentive and powders are absorbed the least by the skin. Many products claim to address a skin issue, such as acne or dry skin, but contain ingredients which exacerbate these problems. For instance, acne treatments may contain comedogenic, or pore-clogging ingredients. Creams that are supposed to treat dry skin may actually strip the skin of its natural oils which are effective in preventing dryness. whatsoever contain chemicals which seep through the skin and dissolve skin oils and defat the skin (Lappe, 1996). A growing trend is chemical sensitivity, which can develop at any time, equal after long term use of the same product. The ingredients in many cosmetics cause 20% of the population (U.S. data, Erickson, 2002) to develop the symptoms of chemical sensitivity. Natural cosmetics emphasize more handed-down skin treatments with few of these harsh effects, acknowledging that short term beauty does not balance with daylong term hazards to health.
The health of the skin is dependent on sound nutritional practices, healthy living and effective, safe protection on its surface. The nonsynthetic make-up co. can help you achieve healthy, radiant skin by offering a complete line of cosmetics and makeup composed of all natural ingredients, with no animal, synthetic or petroleum-based ingredients. Our products are ready-made fresh for you once we receive your order, and contain preservatives much as d-alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and other plant oils with anti-microbial properties.
We invite you to give our natural products a try. Our cosmetics and make-up are formulated on the basis of sound, technological principles and the physiology of the skin. Our products will convince you on their own merit, since they are natural, vegan, and an excellent alternative to conventional make-up and cosmetics.
Please contact us at
http://www.organicmakeup.ca for further information.
References:
- Anctzak, Gina & Stephen, Dr., (2001). Cosmetics Unmasked, Harper Collin, London.
- Erickson, Kim, (2002). Drop stillborn Gorgeous, Contemporary Books, USA.
- Lappe, Marc Dr., (1996). The Body's Edge, Henry Holt & Co., New York.
- Purvis, Debbie, (1989). The Business of Beauty, Wall & Thompson, Toronto.
- Awake! Watchtower Bible and Tract Society of spic-and-span York, Canada, February 8 2004.
By Lori Stryker, B.Sc., B.H.Ec., B.Ed.
http://www.organicmakeup.ca
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